Cosmetics & Personal Care | Monthly bulletin | March 2026

Mastering cosmetic packaging: The new CosPaTox guide for testing and the interpretation of results

CosPaTox, a consortium focused on the intersection of Cosmetics, Packaging, and Toxicology, has formulated standardised voluntary safety evaluation guidance for the use of plastic Post-Consumer Recyclates (PCR) in cosmetic product and detergent packaging. The CosPaTox Consortium has undertaken extensive analytical testing as well as toxicological evaluation to understand the safety prole of PCR plastic materials made from PE, PP and LDPE, which are used as packaging materials for cosmetic products, detergents, and home care products. Clear guidance - which includes the definition of three distinct quality levels for plastic recyclates - has been developed to enable a holistic testing strategy, as well as a safety assessment approach for recycled plastics.

The CosPaTox Consortium’s approach to enable robust safety assessment is technology neutral and does not consider or require any specific collection, sorting, or recycling technology but rather focuses solely on the quality of the recycled materials themselves. The presented safety assessment approach can therefore be applied to any polyolefin recyclate, regardless of origin. By providing clear recommendations for the safe use of recycled plastic materials, even in the absence of food contact approvals, the CosPaTox Consortium’s work will help to boost the uptake of recycled materials in the packaging of cosmetic products and detergents, thereby contributing to a circular economy.

Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care laboratories’ extensive capabilities allow for the performance of all analyses presented in the new CosPaTox guide, helping you to confidently assess the safety of recycled plastic materials used in your packaging by providing a comprehensive interpretation of the results obtained.

Understanding pigmentary disorders: From biology to advanced clinical evaluation.

Pigmentary disorders are among the most common dermatological concerns worldwide, affecting individuals across all ages, skin types, and demographics. A recent large-scale epidemiological study which surveyed more than 48,000 adults from 34 countries revealed that 1 in 2 respondents reported at least one pigmentary disorder, such as melasma, lentigines, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), or vitiligo. Beyond their prevalence, these conditions significantly impair quality of life. The burden of illness is particularly high for women and varies markedly across ethnic groups, with darker phototypes reporting stronger visibility-related distress and higher stigmatisation scores.

At the core of these disorders lies a disruption of melanin regulation, driving either hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation. Melanin is produced by melanocytes, transferred to surrounding keratinocytes, and distributed through the epidermis to protect the skin from ultraviolet and visible light. While the relative ratio of eumelanin and pheomelanin is genetically determined, numerous environmental and biological factors – such as UVR exposure, hormonal fluctuations, inflammation, vascularisation, and fibroblast signalling - can alter melanocyte activity. Importantly, ethnic variations in melanosome size, number, and distribution contribute to different susceptibilities to hyperpigmented lesions.

A deeper understanding of pigmentation biology has been made possible thanks to refined in vitro and ex vivo models. Classical 2D melanocyte or melanocyte–keratinocyte co-cultures remain useful, but more sophisticated models now offer superior physiological relevance. 3D reconstructed human pigmented skin incorporate melanocytes within epidermal–dermal structures and enables realistic evaluation of melanogenesis and melanin transfer. Human skin explants remain the gold standard for preserving native melanocyte–keratinocyte interactions and tissue polarity, providing valuable short-term platforms for mechanistic studies and early screening.

In clinical research settings, in vivo assessment of pigmentation has progressed significantly. Traditional colorimetry and mexametry provide quantitative melanin indices, while dvanced image‑analysis methodologies now play a central role in characteriing pigmentary disorders with high sensitivity. Standardised clinical photography combined with image analysis allows precise quantification of lesion area, pigmentation intensity, and evolution over time. Dedicated algorithms can segment hyperpigmented spots, map melanin heterogeneity, and compute objective severity indices, particularly valuable in melasma, lentigines, and PIH. High‑resolution imaging, such as multispectral or cross-polaried photography, enhances contrast between chromophores, facilitating the separation of melanin from vascular components. Multiphoton microscopy and LC-OCT enable non-invasive assessment of melanocyte and melanin localisation within the epidermis. These approaches complement clinical scoring tools used for specific conditions such as melasma, lentigines, and PIH, allowing precise monitoring of treatment efficacy.

As pigmentary disorders arise from multifactorial biological processes and vary widely across ethnic backgrounds, multicentric, multi-ethnic, and multimodal clinical strategies are essential. At Eurofins C&PC, we support our partners at every step, from mechanistic discovery using advanced in vitro and 3D models, to robust in vivo evaluation integrating clinical grading, imaging, biometrology, and quality-of-life endpoints. Our expertise ensures comprehensive, inclusive, and scientifically rigorous exploration of pigmentation pathways and therapeutic innovations.

Two new substances added to the SVHC candidate list

On February 4^th, 2026, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) officially added two new substances to the Candidate List of Substances of Very High Concern (SVHCs). This update brings the total number of SVHCs to 253, reinforcing the regulatory push for improved chemical safety and increased transparency throughout the supply chain.

The newly listed SVHCs are:

n-Hexane (CAS number 110-54-3); commonly used in polymer processing or as cleaning agents and degreasers
4,4'-[2,2,2-trifluoro-1-(trifluoromethyl)ethylidene] diphenol (also known as Bisphenol AF) and its salts; used as process regulators, crosslinking agents or specialty coating components

Both substances were added due to concerns regarding their potential impact on human health. Their hazardous properties justify closer regulatory oversight under REACH to ensure that any risks associated with their use are adequately managed.

Although these substances are already banned in cosmetic products and thus are not used directly in cosmetic formulations, they may appear upstream in raw material manufacturing processes or packaging, making supply chain vigilance essential for cosmetic stakeholders.

This addition also has an impact on national regulations in France. Article 13 of the AGEC Law (Anti-Waste for a Circular Economy) requires companies to disclose the presence of SVHCs and endocrine disruptors in their products. This information must be made available to consumers in a dematerialised product sheet (QCE) when the concentration of such substances exceeds 0.1% in the product or its packaging.

The deadline for updating the QCE sheets of the products concerned is 6 months from August 4^th, 2026.

Eurofins C&PC supports companies with comprehensive SVHC testing and analytical assessments to ensure compliance with REACH requirements and French AGEC Law obligations, helping stakeholders secure their supply chain and update QCE documentation on time.

What’s next?

Trade shows

In-cosmetics Global - April 14th-16th

Paris, France – Stand 1F40

Conference: Assessing the safety and stability of nanoparticles in cosmetic formulations: Methods, challenges and compliance | April 14 | 5:10 pm (CET) | Theatre 2, Hall 7, Level 3 | Chrystelle Reynaud

More information: https://www.eurofins.com/cosmetics/media-centre/in-cosmetics-global-2026/

Webinar

Menstrual hygiene products - Safety, risk assessment, and performance at the heart of development

Thursday, April 2nd, 2026 at 3pm (CET)

Expert talk

PFAS in Cosmetics - Science, Risk & Regulation - Part one

Tuesday, April 7, 2026 at 12pm (EDT)