Cosmetics & Personal Care | Monthly bulletin | January 2026
“Glass Hair”: Innovative measurement of shine and smoothness in hair care
“Glass hair” refers to a hair condition characterised by an exceptionally smooth and uniform surface, giving the fibre a near glass-like appearance. This visual effect results from a perfectly aligned and tightly sealed cuticle, which reduces surface roughness and promotes optimal specular reflection of light.
From a physico-chemical perspective, this state corresponds to a significant reduction in porosity and inter-fibre friction. It is typically achieved through a combination of thermo-mechanical processes (such as high-temperature straightening) and formulations rich in film-forming agents (including silicones and polymers) and lipids that enhance cuticle cohesion. Associated hair care routines also aim to preserve the structural integrity of the fibre by minimising oxidative and thermal damage. As such, “glass hair” can be considered both a visual indicator of hair health and a key marker in shine-related research.
In this context, Eurofins Cosmetics and Personal Care has developed a dedicated method to quantify the “mirror-like” component of light reflected by the hair fibre, namely its specular shine. This measurement, performed along the entire length of hair tresses, enables precise characterisation of the “glass hair” effect and supports innovation in products designed to enhance shine, smoothness and hair repair.
Eurofins Cosmetics & Personal Care strengthens its expertise in skin imaging with LC-OCT
Eurofins Cosmetics and Personal Care has recently integrated Line-field Confocal Optical Coherence Tomography (LC-OCT) into its portfolio, strengthening its in vivo imaging capabilities for cosmetic efficacy assessment. Initially validated in dermatological oncology, LC-OCT is now attracting growing interest in cosmetic science due to its ability to visualise skin microarchitecture non-invasively and with near-histological resolution.
LC-OCT provides high-resolution, real-time imaging of the epidermis and superficial dermis, enabling detailed qualitative and semi-quantitative analyses of structural changes induced by cosmetic products. This is particularly relevant for before/after comparisons and for monitoring dermal remodelling processes following topical application.
From a biological standpoint, the technique is well suited to studying the papillary dermis, where metabolically active fibroblasts and dynamic collagen turnover are predominantly located. In contrast, the deeper reticular dermis contains thicker, more structural collagen fibres with lower reactivity. LC-OCT therefore offers meaningful insight into superficial dermal architecture, where many cosmetic claims are expected to manifest.
As with any imaging modality, LC-OCT has inherent limitations, including a penetration depth of approximately 500 µm, operator-dependent image acquisition and interpretation, and the inability to fully characterise functional or molecular skin parameters on its own. Consequently, its added value is maximised when combined with complementary biophysical, biochemical or clinical evaluation methods.
Overall, the acquisition of LC-OCT represents a significant asset for study design, provided its indications and limitations are fully understood. Looking ahead, LC-OCT will be applicable to ex vivo skin explants, opening new perspectives for translational and mechanistic cosmetic research.
PFAS in cosmetics: Publication of the French implementing decree and anticipation of future European restrictions
The long awaited, and widely anticipated, implementing decree No.2025-1376 of 28 December 2025 for the French PFAS ban has now been published in the Official Journal of 30 December 2025. After months of intense interministerial discussions, the Prime Minister’s office finalised the text, confirming the conditions under which the national prohibition on PFAS will apply to cosmetic products.
Compared with the earlier draft reviewed and commented on by industry stakeholders, the final decree maintains the three threshold values defining non-compliance, aligned with current discussions at the European level:
- 25 ppb for PFAS detected through targeted analysis
- 250 ppb for the sum of PFAS detected through targeted analysis
- 50 ppm for total PFAS (including polymeric PFAS)
The decree confirms the legal application date of 1 January 2026, as set by Law No. 2025 188.
However, it introduces a 12 month sell through period for products manufactured before 1 January 2026. These products may remain on the market until 31 December 2026.
For the record, the ban applies to finished cosmetic products, covering:
- PFAS intentionally added as ingredients, and
- PFAS present unintentionally, given the sensitivity of the thresholds.
This second aspect represents the greatest compliance challenge for the cosmetics sector. PFAS contamination may arise from raw materials, processing aids, manufacturing environments, or packaging interactions - making analytical verification and supply chain control essential.
Importantly, the French threshold values and compliance principles set out in the implementing decree are identical to those currently envisaged under the forthcoming European PFAS restriction. France is therefore acting as a regulatory forerunner, anticipating at national level the framework that is expected to apply across the European Union in the coming years.
In August 2025, the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) published an updated version of the PFAS restriction proposal. This revised text was prepared by the five Member States behind the initial restriction intention (Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden and Norway), following an in-depth assessment of the comments received during the public consultation.
The updated proposal includes an expanded and revised list of derogations. However, no derogation is foreseen for cosmetic products, as the substitution of PFAS in cosmetics had already been assessed as both technically and economically feasible. Proposed derogations mainly concern:
- The manufacture of PFAS for certain specific downstream uses,
- The use of PFAS based solvents in industrial applications, potentially up to 13.5 years after the regulation enters into force,
- Certain applications in the energy sector and other strategic industries.
As of 25 September 2025, it was confirmed that the preliminary opinions of ECHA’s Committee for Risk Assessment (RAC) and Committee for Socio Economic Analysis (SEAC) are expected to be available in March 2026. These draft opinions will then be opened to public consultation for a period of two months.
The final RAC and SEAC opinions are expected by the end of 2026, in line with earlier announcements.
Following the adoption of the final opinions, the restriction proposal will be discussed at European Commission level. If endorsed, it will be translated into a regulation amending Annex XVII of REACH.
Based on the current indicative timeline, publication of the REACH amendment could be envisaged in 2027, marking the formal entry into force of a harmonised European PFAS restriction, including cosmetics, closely mirroring the regime already implemented in France.
Companies that ensure compliance with the French PFAS thresholds, analytical requirements and supply chain controls today will be well positioned to meet future European obligations tomorrow. In this context, proactive raw material screening, robust supplier engagement, and validated analytical strategies are no longer optional, they are becoming foundational elements of regulatory compliance in the European cosmetics market.
What’s next?
Trade shows
PCHI - 18-20 March
Hangzhou, China – Stand 8B23
Conference: Ex vivo skin model as an inexhaustible source of innovation for cosmetic testing | March 18 at 4:00 PM | NTS A | Mr. Nikita Radionov, PhD
More information: https://www.eurofins.com/cosmetics/media-centre/pchi-2026/
Cosmetotest - 18-19 March
Lyon, France
Conference: Clinical Studies Conducted on Cosmetic Products Related to Menopause | March 18 at 9:10 AM | Anne Sirvent
Webinars
Skin Hydration & Barrier Function: Understanding, testing and demonstrating cosmetic efficacy
Thursday, February 12, 2026, at 3pm (CET)
Enhancing makeup products through advanced testing
Thursday, February 19, 2026, at 3pm (CET)
