PFAS textile regulations around the world

High concern about the impact of PFAS (Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances) on the environment and human health has led to growing legislative action globally on restrictions surrounding these “forever chemicals”.

Due to its extremely persistent characteristics and legacy on ecosystems, we all need to prepare for the changing PFAS landscape. In this article, we will discuss the PFAS regulations related to the textile industry around the world.

What is PFAS and how does it affect the environment?

PFAS are a group of thousands of man-made substances that are used in numerous applications. Estimates vary but it is widely recognised that there are several thousand of different chemicals included in the family. These substances provide desirable attributes and properties to consumer products as stability under intense heat and water and grease repellent between others.

In a nutshell, we can classify it into these two types:

• Polymers
  such as PTFE (used to coat cookware) and fluorinated side chain polymers (used in some textile finishes).
• Non-polymers
  such as Fluorotelomer alcohols and Perfluorocarboxylic acids e.g. PFOA (C8) and perfluoro sulphonates e.g. PFOS.

These substances contain carbon-fluorine bonds which are one of the strongest chemical bonds. This means that PFAS resists degradation when used and in the environment. Consequently, these substances can be transported and cover long distances away from the source of their release through the pollution of groundwater, drinking water, soil, and food.

Certain PFAS are linked to negative effects on human health, for example, in reproduction, and can harm the development of fetuses, may cause cancer in humans, and are suspected of interfering with the human endocrine (hormonal) system.

European Union

The European Union is leading the way in regulating PFAS and its related chemicals in textiles and other industries. Its regulations have had a significant impact on the global market for these products. Here we summarise a list of the major regulations:

• REACH
  Under Entry 68 of Annex XVII (Restricted Substances), REACH regulates C9-C14 PFCAs, their salts and related substances.
  
  Several European countries have proposed restrictions for different substances inside the PFAS family, such as perfluorohexane-1-sulphonic acid (PFHxS) by Norway, undecafluorohexanoic acid (PFHxA) by Germany and a restriction covering a wide range of PFAS uses by the national authorities of Germany, Denmark, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden, amongst other proposals.
  
  
• Substances of very high concern (SVHC) under REACH
  A number of PFAS are on the REACH Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHC) such as PFOA, perfluorinated carboxylic acids (C9-14 PFCAs), PFHxS, HFPO-DA (Substitute for PFOA), perfluorobutane sulfonic acid (PFBS) (a replacement of PFOS) and perfluoroheptanoic acid (PFHpA) and its salts.
  
  If their article contains SVHC substances above a concentration of 0.1% (w/w), the importers or manufacturer has the following obligations:
  • Provide information to the consumer for safe use of products.
  • In the case that quantities totalling over one tonne per year. The substance has to be notificated and submitted to ECHA.
  • SCIP Notification on that article to ECHA.
  
  
• Persistent Organic Pollutants (POPs) Regulation
  POPs Regulation restricts the production and use of PFOS and PFOA and requires the phase-out of PFOS in textiles and other products.
  
  Other substances such as PFHxS, its salts and related compounds are expected to be banned at the end of 2023 and the banning of long-chain perfluorinated carboxylic acids (C9-21 PFCAs) is being considered globally.

United States

Despite the fact that there is no federal ban on PFAS in textiles, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has implemented measures to regulate it in the textile and garment industries. Here are some of the key regulations:

• Chemical Data Reporting (CDR)
  Requires manufacturers and importers of chemicals, including PFAS, to report data on the production and use of these chemicals to the EPA.
• Significant New Use Rule (SNUR)
  Restricts the use of certain PFAS.
  
  
• Voluntary Stewardship Programs
  Encourage textile and garment manufacturers to reduce their use of PFAS.

Aside from this, some states have implemented their regulations on PFAS in textiles and garment industries, for example, California has passed bill AB 18171 to phase out the use of PFAS chemicals in apparel and textiles which will be effective on 1 January 2025. Colorado will also prohibit PFAS chemicals in fabric treatments from 1 January 2024 and indoor textile furnishings from 1 January 2025.

China

There is no mandatory regulation related to using PFAS in the textile industry. However, voluntary standards apply to the use of this group of chemicals:

• List of New Pollutants for Priority Management
  The Chinese Ministry of Ecology and Environment published the List of New Pollutants for Priority Management (2023) in December 2022 in which PFOS and PFOA are on the list. The List has come into force since 1 March 2023 to govern the chemical industry and might affect the textile industry.
  
  
• GB/T 21295
  A voluntary standard serves as a guideline for the textile industry, covering the use of PFAS, PFOS and PFOSF.
  
  

How the Eurofins Softlines & Leather network of laboratories can help

PFAS is in the spotlight because of its bio-accumulative behaviour and associated health concerns. The mounting legislation around the current and future restrictions against this group of chemicals results in ever-changing testing standards and compliance requirements.

Our PFAS testing supports science-based sustainability targets and helps assure worker and consumer safety whilst reducing legal violations, fines, returns, and reworks.

For more details, please click here to learn more about our PFAS testing service.